Stereotypes that I can’t confirm

Stereotypes save time, and as in any generalizations, dangerous as they may be, help you figure out your way around the world… unless they are just incorrect. Here is a list of several stereotypes related to Europe that I just can never confirm or found out to be totally incorrect. Maybe they were valid generalizations at another time in history and nobody noticed the change, may be not. Enjoy!

  • Italian ice cream is best: Are you kidding me? Can’t find it. Been to dozens of ice cream shops and bought the cheap ones to the expensive ones and didn’t find a single one that will beat my Häagen-Dazs back home. By the way, Häagen-Dazs is a brand of ice cream established by Jewish-Polish immigrants Reuben and Rose Mattus in the Bronx, New York.
  • French dont like to speak English: I have been to Paris and also to the South like Montpellier and Marseille and I interacted with many French people and they all made an effort to communicate, sometimes unsuccessfully. That idea of the French pretending to not knowing English or being standoffish is something I never found.
  • Americans are monolingual: Oh, come on, most people from any other country you visit only speak their own language. We are not stupider than others. Fatter yes, but not stupider.
  • Italians use the horn too much while driving: Can’t hear that! They are aggressive drivers, but silent. Try driving in Miami, however, and you will know what it is to have your vehicle propelled by horn sound.
  • French don’t like Americans: There are some French people that really despise Americans. But those are the French people that despise everybody. They don’t have any special feelings about Americans… they are equal opportunity snobs. Just don’t like anyone who is not French. Oh, and sometimes they also don’t like French from other areas too.
  • Be careful with gipsies in Romania: I was warned many times to be careful in Romania, that the place is full of Gipsies… no it is not! Romania is as dangerous and fucked up as many other countries. Nothing special about it. You have to be careful as a standard procedure like you have to be careful with pickpockets in most of Europe, with con artists, and crazy drivers. But I would not single out Romania as worse than others, unless you are afraid of vampires.
  • Italian drivers are the worst: As you go South so goes the quality of your driving experience. But that is not a particularity of the Italians. Drivers from Southern France, and Spain are also notoriously aggressive. It is not that they don’t know how to drive well, not about the technique, it is about their compulsions and sense of masculinity that gets threatened every time there is a physical possibility to pass the vehicle ahead of them. They just can’t help themselves and will tailgate you shamelessly, share the lane dangerously, not yield, cut in, and do any other vehicular douchebaguery necessary to take your space on the road.
  • Venezia smells bad: Without cars actually the air quality there is excellent.
  • Italians are very elegant: We see the Italian tourists in Miami or Boston or New York and they seems super elegant and pretty and well put together, but that impression will not survive a visit to Italy, where you will see the Italians dressed in shorts and flips flops and a jersey of the Inter of Milan, side by side with elegant tourists from Boston, New York, Miami…..
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Europe x USA

Generalizations are always dangerous, but I had to come up with some of the very shallow but most evident differences between Europe and USA. Here are some of them:

  • Better drivers, better traffic: Well… except in Italy, Romania, and Spain, where everyone seems to be in a big fucking hurry and traffic signs are regarded as just “suggestions”. But in general European drivers are very good. Maybe because it takes so much effort and training to get a license here, plus the cost of the vehicle and insurance are so high, that drivers are generally better than in USA.
  • Smokers everywhere, lots if it: For non-smoking Americans this point is quite irritating. They smoke a lot, everywhere, and don’t have a clue as to where to sit so their smoke goes in  another direction rather than right in your face.
  • More smog, especially in Hungary: Spain and Romania were not easy, but Hungary really takes the prize for lots of smog. However, even in cleaner countries like Austria and Germany the level of vehicle pollution is quite pronounced and I haven’t felt it so much since I visited…. Mexico!
  • Few napkins, hard to find: In some places they don’t even give you any, unless you ask for it!
  • Great public restrooms: Even at fast food joints. Even at gas stations. Even at the most remote gas stations. The restrooms have been almost always spotless.
  • Not as much police: By the time of this writing I have been riding for more than 3 thousand miles and I have seen cops giving out tickets only 3 times so far. Not unusual to spend an entire day without seeing any of them! I believe the quantity of cops x population here has to be much lower than in America.
  • Fewer trash cans, none in London: And when you find one, it is usually loaded up to the top.
  • Rare parking enforcement: Except for a few very touristy places I have seen very little parking enforcement, and much less parking violations.
  • Trains, metro and bus unchecked: You walk into a bus or surface train in most cities and show your pass to a machine that will give you a bip when you check in, but honestly nobody is paying any attention. I bet you can ride everywhere, including a lot of subways in several countries, without ever buying a ticket. The result: everybody buys a ticket.
  • Harder to find WiFi: Oh boy, I am soooooo missing the good old USA where WiFi is so easy to find and usually free. Here in some countries you feel like you are back to the 1980′s or something. Very hard to connect, and when you do it is rarely very fast. The top prize on this shittyness is London, where even on the very rare occasions when you find WiFi then it just doesn’t work. The free Wi-Fi always works at MacDonalds… except in Italy.
  • Cell phone service 6 years behind: It is not expensive, but it is a messy confusion of dialing prefixes, zeroes to dial here and there but not everywhere, services than work in one country and then not in another, lack of standards, and a jungle of providers and incomprehensible options that never fit you.
  • Most countries clean everywhere: Really, not even on the sides of the roads. Most countries in Europe are spotless! I have been to a few places that looks very much like back home but in general this continent is super clean.
  • Waiters just as good or bad: I used to believe that without the tradition of tipping the waiters would be worse here. Especially in France where they have quite a reputation. But no, not at all. It has been pretty much the same quality (and occasional lack of it) everywhere, just like in America.
  • Hash runs not as wild: I am so disappointed with the hash runs so far. Nearly falling asleep on them. Boring, boring, boring. In USA we go wild: Trespassing, cursing, nudity, drinking, teasing and just plain being silly. In Europe except for the little bit of beer drinking I think they would qualify as “kids friendly hashes” all the way.
  • Not as many plastic bags: In some places they ask if you want any. In others they charge you as high as 25 cents for each bag. Some places don’t even have any. I like that!
  • Usually great train services: In some countries you can set your watch by the time the train leaves.
  • Travel anonymously by train: No ID required for most land travel in Europe. In USA you can’t get on a train or bus without showing ID… which is totally unnecessary and a waste of time.
  • Some hotels don’t even check ID: Actually most places that I stayed didn’t ask for anything other than the money. In USA I can’t find a place that will allow you to check in without showing ID. Are we the f*&ˆ%$#@g Soviet Union now?
  • Less ice, sometimes none: They are just not as familiar with the concept of having ice. Also, warm beer seems to be acceptable in many households and, sadly, in several hashes. WTF!
  • Few pickup trucks: You can drive for days at a time without seeing a single one!
  • Amazing number of great roads for motorcycling: Everywhere. It is amazing. I quit taking notes about them. They are just everywhere. Just drive in any direction for a while, get lost, and chances are you will be in a fabulous road for motorcycle riding.
  • Fuel first, then pay: Just opposite of USA where you have to pay first nearly everywhere. I remember one gas station on the Blue Ridge Parkway that is different but anywhere else it is pay first. They just don’t trust you, do they? But in Europe you always fuel first. Except in Italy where often there is no attendant and they have some evil machines that eat your money and then you fuel. Need change? Not a chance.
  • Convenient ATMs everywhere. The only weird exception was Slovenia where my debit card didn’t work and I nearly ran out of money. But OK everywhere else.
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Germany Invasion 2011

Sometimes you plan on doing something for a long time, build up a lot of expectations, and then get disappointed when reality does not measure up to the dream. That was absolutely not the case with this event. I felt at the end that it was better than I could have planned in any way I could measure it.

The roads were well chosen, the places were beautiful, the weather held up quite well nearly all the time, and our hosts couldn’t have been better. I make several new friends there, and that is a very important point for me. The food was great. Wow, everything! What an event.

I was also very curious to see how I would feel about riding in a group after not doing it for several years. It was just fine and because all the bikers were also couchsurfers we had so much in common, such a compatibility of values and interests while a variety of experiences and lifestyles, that it was just a perfect experience.

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Visiting Romania

One of the first friends that I visited in Bucharest is Smaranda. We have been talking online for over a year and we became friends and were looking forward to meet and see each other in person. She is a very smart and authentic kind of person and it was really nice seeing her now.

She recommended some great places there as well, like the Caru’ cu Bere where you can have great food and beers while watching excellent dancers, all in a fantastic building hosts the oldest brewery of Bucharest. The other place I loved was Beer O’Clock where we enjoyed some great beers from Romania and elsewhere.

Next day I met with Alex Joseph, on his last few days of travel in Europe. We had great conversations and explored the old city together, looking for great beers. Alex is not fully aware yet of how awesome he really is, and doesn’t know completely how much people want to hear about his travels and experiences. A truly interesting guy with lots to say. I am pretty sure we will meet again in California, where he lives.

Last day of the visit to Bucharest I stopped by to visit Adrian and Micky. The idea was to stay for a couple of hours, and then get on the road as I had a long way to go for the next four days. It didn’t work that way: Adrian and Micky were so nice, welcoming, with great friends, and such a fabulous attitude, that I had to stay all day, participated on their games and BBQ, and left early next morning. It was such a surprise and I am very happy that I saw them.

I was impressed at how much Romania looks and feels like being in Brazil. Other than the language, the similarity is amazing. Same crazy traffic, same dressing styles, same prices, same cars, same attitudes. Maybe that is why I felt so comfortable there, even if it is very different than American, and also very different than everything else I have seen in Europe so far.

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Friederike and Jörg in Germany

What a couple! They love riding motorcycles. When I arrived Jörg helped me to fix some stuff on the bike and then he had to go to work. Friederike arrived later from her work and we went out on a motorcycle ride along the Weiser river that was memorable. She followed that by cooking a fantastic dinner that I won’t forget. Then the next day they both went out with me on another ride all the way to Hannover. Three days later here I am typing this from Friederike’s parents’ home in Geras, Austria where I will be staying for the night. Her family is treating me like royalty. Hopefully we will have a chance to ride together again during this tour in Europe… maybe Oktoberfest? (hint, hint)

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Rainer Schönbrunn in Germany

Rainer was the first person I visited in Germany. We met online through CouchSurfing more than a year ago and I finally got to visit him. He was an outstanding host! He had a fridge full of great German beer, cooked a fabulous BBQ, gave me a tour of his city, a castle nearby, the whole nine yards. And to top it off, when I told that my GPS on my iPhone was not working properly he let me use his GPS for the remainder of my visit to Europe and I can ship it back to him before I return to America. What a generous, friendly guy he is. And now, also a friend that I want to meet again in the future. Hopefully that will happen in America when he goes to ride a motorcycle there.

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Graham and Sonya in Brussels

They are so cool! Met them through CouchSurfing and we have so much in common! They are bikers, they are hashers, and they love to travel. In just 3 days together I think I made some great friends. Their generosity and authenticity are part of what made Brussels one of my favorite cities.

Graham was elegant enough to not be mad at me when I kicked his ass mercilessly at ping pong while drinking his great beers and staying at his home.

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Feeling at home in Amsterdam

The measure of how good a place is seems to be mostly about how many, and how good, friends one have in that place. When I got to Amsterdam on July 15th I didn’t know anyone there, but right on the first day I met with Dimitri thanks to the wonders of CouchSurfing.org.

Dimitri hosted me for the first day, took me and two other guests from Poland to a walk in the city and was generally super helpful and cool with all of us. He also let me store some luggage at his place for several days until I could find how when my motorcycle would be arriving.

I met Leonie later during the first day in Amsterdam. She also took me out for a walk in the city, showed me some very cool places, and became one of my friends. I am very happy I have met her.

Robbert and his gorgeous girlfriend Sanderien let me stay in their yellow bus for the night. That was way cool. They are also bikers and I believe we will have a chance to ride together later during my trip through Europe.

I met Alfred during the hash run with the Amsterdam H3 and after that run and dinner we went to a crusty old bar in the city center where he told me a lot about Scotch Whisky. I didn’t know anything about it and he is very knowledgeable. He helped me figure out what kinds of Scotch I like, and how to order, serve, and enjoy it properly. We also went together to the hash run in Den Haag three days later.

But I guess that as a CouchSurfing host Bridget may have to take the prize of best-ever. She offered me a place in the city for the weekend, didn’t mind that I extended my stay another day. She also helped with holding my luggage a couple more days, and when I invited her to visit Paris for the weekend she offered to bring us in her car! She is a hasher (started in Amsterdam with me), she is a biker (had a Harley-Davidson), and she is a very smart and independent woman.

Having great experiences like this make Amsterdam, or any other city, feel like home.

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Amsterdam: Valiant, Steadfast, Compassionate

‘Hedhaftig, Vastberaden, Barmhartig’ is the motto of the city of Amsterdam in the Netherlands. It means ‘Valiant, Steadfast, Compassionate’. It dates back to March 29, 1947. On that date Queen Wilhelmina [31 August 1880 - 28 November 1962] presented the motto as part of the city arms. She thereby meant to honor the people of Amsterdam, who were the first Europeans to oppose the Nazi persection of the Jewish population.

Amsterdam is a wonderful city, clean for the most part, with a very intense nightlife, great people, lots of things to do. Most tourists come to Amsterdam thinking of visiting the Red Light District and getting stoned and/or drunk. That is unfortunate because the city has a lot more, and a lot better, to offer.

Most people that come to Amsterdam want to start at the red light district. This is the place where girls sit behind windows waiting for a customer. Most of the red light district is behind the dam square in the place called The Wallen. Just walk along the Oudezijds voorburgwal and take the sidestreets, can’t miss the place because this is where most of the tourists are. Many rooms are now vacant during the day but at night you should have more choice. There are a couple of other places too, like the end of the Ruysdaelkade (for which you need to take the tram) and Bergstraat, oude nieuwstraat and surroundings (these are also in the city centre and you can walk it from Dam Square)

If you are one of those people very sensitive to weed, and if you can get stoned just by someone smoking nearby, then you will be stoned all the time in Amsterdam because people smoke everywhere. On the streets, riding their bicycles, at the bars and parks.

Observe carefully the bike paths. There are 800 thousand people in Amsterdam. These people own 800 thousand bikes, and 900 thousand locks. The place is literally loaded with bikes everywhere. And they ride those bikes very fast! Pay attention to where you walk or it will be a painful experience. There are also crotch-high poles everywhere.

Motorcycles can be parked on the sidewalks. Very little cars can be parked on sidewalks. And 800 thousand bikes can be parked on the sidewalks… So imagine that there is not much space left for pedestrians in some places.

Drinking in public is, to some point, illegal. But they don’t enforce it at all. Just be discreet and don’t do something really stupid, like being run over by a speeding bicycle while drinking your beer and smoking your joint on the street. Oh yes, smoking weed in public is also illegal, but you will see it (or smell it) everywhere.

Some of the buildings are incredibly old and most of them lean one way of another, and a bunch of them are visibly crooked. That creates a visual architectural show that I will never forget. What a beautiful place!

Here you can see some pictures, most of them taken in Amsterdam.

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Do it yourself

There is a generalized school of thought in maintenance in general, and medicine in particular, that says you shouldn’t be getting to do work you don’t know anything about. You should leave it to the experts and certified professionals. That is a self-serving and elitist view, often driven by fear of liability, that I like to combat.

You are at a disadvantage at first, and may take you longer to get it done, but the next time around you will be way ahead of the experts. Ordinary people can do most technical and skilled jobs, especially now on the Internet era, where instructions for nearly anything can be found with just a Google search.

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