The dark side

This article was written to be a source of information only, but with a clear disclaimer that I am not recommending you run a car tire on your Valkyrie. The information contained in the article is so you can obtain more information to make an informed decision if a car tire is for you. You are a grown up. I am not responsible for any damage or bodily injury that may occur because you mounted and drove your motorcycle with a car tire on it.  This compilation of information is my experience, and I am not infallible, neither are you.

Technology:

Compared to car tires, today’s cruising tires are seriously overpriced, technologically outdated, and unreliable. Failures are frequent and expected mileage is much lesser than what is expected of a car tire. The tires of sport bikes are much better, of course, but cruiser bikes are riding today with nearly the same technology as they were 30 years ago, but at 10 times the price.

Tolerance to defects is the most noticed difference. Just reading the forums and checking reviews of tires, let alone talking to other bikers, you will read stories of motorcycle tires having every kind of failure imaginable. Defective beads, bubbling, blistering, cracking, tread/carcass separation, radical balance deficiencies, out of round, wobble, and just the outright failure to actually hold air. By contrast, you will rarely see any of it in car tires. So much so that car tires are covered by extensive warranties and replacement programs. Motorcycle tires are not.

Quality of motorcycle tires varies even within every brand. Just because one size tire in your favorite brand causes no problems, doesn’t mean a different size tire of the same brand will be similar in quality. Even in the same brand and size, batches vary considerably in quality.

Insurance:

Insurance companies never asked if I had the engine modified in any way (I had), if the exhausts are the original ones or custom (they are custom), if the carburation, filters, or oil I use are the ones recommended by the manufacturer (they are not). I don’t think they will ever ask, or care, what kind of tires I am running on my bike.

What Honda says:

If I were to ask them, they would say never to work on my own machine, only use OEM parts and tires, never, under any circumstances modify anything, and for heaven’s sake only have them do any work needed. They of course, would also say that they are not liable for any work they do or parts they provide, and probably if I pressed them they would say that riding motorcycles is inherently dangerous and not worth the risk.

What to buy:

Look for a symmetric, directional tread pattern, with solid, beefy chunks of tread near the outer edges to minimize squirm, and solid tread in the very center of the tires to help make it quiet. Also look for a high speed rating (Y, W, or Z). I bought a Goodride A308 215/55/16, which very barely fits, so I would rather recommend a 205/60/16 unless you are a crazy SOB like me.

The looks:

It looks badass as it can be! It looks much wider than the original MC tire. Most riders that go dark side use 205/60/16 but I read a reference to someone that successfully installed a 215/55/16 so I decided to try that. Well, it fits!

The clearance using the 215 wide is so little that I think different models of 215 may give you different clearances, or no clearance at all. You are risking installing the tire just to find out, after you mounted it on the bike, that the tire is rubbing on the swingarm: Epic failure. So if you feel adventurous it’s worth the risk, but if you do not then stick to the 205 instead.

Mounting:

It is a bitch to install. Just getting it on the rim and install on the bike was a major pain in the ass. The good thing about being around 40 years old is that you can pay 20 year olds to do all this heavy work while you drink a beer, so it wasn’t too painful for me. But I would not try to do it myself. Most car tires require the fender bolt retainer cages be removed from the fender.

This is not a task for the mechanically apparatus challenged. Don’t try to mount it on the rim by hand. You risk dinging the rim. Use a machine for that. The sidewalls on those car tires are way too strong and stiff.

After running any new tire for about 500 miles I like to add Slime to it, to prevent losing pressure to punctures and leaky valves.

The Valkyrie speedometer reads the front wheel so no matter which one used, the accuracy will not be affected.

Tire pressure:

There is not much information out there about what is the best. I started with 36psi and after just a few miles was under the impression that it was too soft, so I increased it to 40 and will run it like that for a while. You may have to try different pressures to find the best combination for your tire, your particular bike (weight) and your riding comfort.

Riding:

It takes a little getting used to. After about 200 miles I did not even notice the difference anymore. It is very much like getting used to a new motorcycle. It handles differently. Not worse, not better, just differently. You can handle it, and in a short time, you won’t mind the difference.

The tire is designed to flex in the sidewall whereas a motorcycle tire is not, well not much anyway. A motorcycle tire is designed to make contact with the road on the edge of the tire, hence it is rounded. A car tire is designed to flex in a corner, keeping as much of the entire tread on the road. This is what takes a little getting used to.

Cornering it will fight you a little bit and want to track straight rather than lean into the curve of the road. Also, any little imperfections in the road, it will also let you know when you have found them, by “squiggling” under you. It’s not bad, it’s not even very different than the motorcycle tire, but yes it does handle different. Parking, doing U-turns, or very small circles it will feel quite uncomfortable and keep you alert wether you like it or not.

The higher the speed the more you will like it. Very comfortable and stable above 30 miles per hour or so. The faster the better. I am not talking 140 MPH, but 65 to 80 MPH the tire becomes very stable. Much more so, I feel, than the motorcycle tire.

It is much worse in some kinds of ground, like my old driveway full of imperfections, potholes, and loose gravel and rocks. Clearly superior in grooved pavements, and asphalt. A little better than the MC tire in gravel. It sticks more to the ground. You feel more the acceleration and when applying the rear brakes the bike will not just slow down better but also straighten out more.

Final result:

So far I am very happy.

It costs much less, lasts longer, looks better, and handles better on the kind of roads I travel the most. It is not likely that I will go back to a MC tire on a Valkyrie.

Is it for you? I don’t know, you will have to drive one and try it out. Or install and see how you like it. But you will have to make up your own mind.

I would say that if you ride mostly in the city, at very slow speeds mostly in traffic, I would definitely not recommend. That is the situation where you would get all the worst of it without any of the best of it. In any other situation I wager that you will like it better.

I will post an update to this after I ride several thousand miles.

My favorite places in Montreal

L’Escalier

L’Escalier is a great little vegetarian bistro located across metro Berri-Uqam. Their food is 90% organic and their home-made style makes it a hearty meal. There is also a stage where local artists have a great time performing and you can be sure it’s a great view from all four corners!

Let’s be clear, this is a hippie place. I had a great time, food was great, light and tasty, cheap, the beer was nice as well. Service was excellent. One of the few places where you can go and hang out, browse the (free) internet, and you don’t need to be eating (spending) all the time. Very relaxed atmosphere.

My favorite places in New York City

Ulysses

Labyrinthine and dim, the interior of Irish-themed Ulysses is wrought in stone, metal and dark wood. One room contains the extensive bar, and another is given over to imposing tables, some elevated on stages. The interior churns with Irish pub-rock and dance hits, while the harried waitstaff caters to business-casual after-workers. Outside, on cobbled Stone Street, is a popular alfresco dining-and-drinking area. Come to Ulysses’ for the wealth of beers on tap

Little Branch

What a nice place.  Walk up to the unassuming door on 7th and Leroy. Show your ID to the friendly, sports jacket clad bouncer who is an MFA trying to publish a novel.   Proceed downstairs to the cozy, chiaroscuro interior with a piano in the corner.  Ask the bowtied bartender to fix you a custom drink, or order off the menu. Imbibe said drink and savor it.  Pay the $13 or so (and tip, this guy is doing some fairly legit mixology) and reflect how you could have spent that for a horrid gin and tonic at some overcrowded, sweaty club.

This place in on par with any cocktail place I’ve ever been to. The amount of effort that is put into every drink is really impressive and I can’t imagine them ever serving a drink that doesn’t taste good. The theme of the place is that of a 1920’s speakeasy and you feel like you’re going on an adventure as you walk downstairs into the basement.

My only knocks against this place are: 1) it is super-romantic – if you are coming with a buddy, it may feel a tad awkward when the couple seated across from you are engaging in 3rd degree PDA.  2) there aren’t enough (or any) bar stools.

Please don’t call me stupid

Just recently twice people that I like and would otherwise behave very nicely and respectfully  had called me stupid because I choose to occasionally ride without a helmet. One said that she wasn’t calling ME stupid, just saying that choosing to ride sans protection was a stupid decision. Well, as Forest Gump’s mother used to say… stupid is as stupid does.

I don’t want to discuss the merits of wearing a helmet here. I attached links to the end of this post with pretty good information about it so you can make up your own mind. What is the focus of this conversation is why in this world some people would lose their civility and have such strong opinions, and voice them, about something they have nothing to do with personally?

Why so, if their opinions are usually not even their own? They talk in sound bites about the social cost of treating people injured in accidents, even though they never thought for more than 5 seconds if this is actually a real point. Especially in America.

Some people talk as if I am some sort of kamikaze rider, looking for an accident  and the afterlife.

I wear helmets most of the time and in some occasions, if the law allows, I choose not to. I did that after researching the subject extensively, talking to many other people, some who agree with me and some who don’t.

Calling me stupid will not change my choices, other than the choice to avoid talking to someone so prone to call me that over an issue so unimportant to their lifestyle. Imagine what such a person could say, or do, if we start talking about the real difficult subjects, like religion, abortion, politics, or the Boston Red Sox?

Some articles about personal freedom:

The truth about helmets

Personal freedom vs. Society

Paternalism and freedom of choice

Some articles strongly encouraging the use of helmets at all times:

Helmet use saves lives

The truth about helmets

Motorcycle helmet laws

Silent desperation

Sometimes riding around rush hour in the afternoon I look at the driver’s faces… very few are smiling. Quite the opposite. Bad attitudes, driving home in a hurry, kids screaming in the back seat. I don’t want their lives.

Or those that would love to stay longer at the party, that would love to escape for a couple of days, camping or just riding into the sunset…. but they “have” to be at work early in the morning.

Sometimes I want to shake them. Scream through the glass that separates our worlds. I want to rattle the bars that hold them back. But I can’t, and I shouldn’t. It’s not my duty, and it is not my right.

I will not steal from anyone the opportunity to gain his/her own freedom. But oh buy how I wish I met more people like I have been meeting, many from the couch surfing community, that travel and go out and know how the world looks like. How I enjoy talking to those that know there is something more than work and bills and taxes to care for.

So many spend their lives going from work to home to work to home, in an endless cycle, in silent desperation. Ensnarled in obligations with clients and bosses and creditors, while all they would really like to do is… you tell me.

Traveler mindset

I saw a documentary about the origins of surfing and in that video they explained that the first Polynesians that had their culture wrapped around surfing believed that the final goal of a man was to surf. That was the ultimate goal in life.

Sometimes I think that in the world of travelers something very similar can be stated about their lives. If you press them hard enough for a purpose, reasons, or motivations that keep them on the road you will see a common pattern in most cases:

Travel is freedom. It’s a fantasy and an escape from routine.

It is also not expensive. Oftentimes spending more money will only build more separation between you and the places and people you travelled so far to see. Most of the amazing experiences you will find will be on the streets, at the houses of people you will meet, at witnessing how they will open their doors and their hearts to you.

Connecting with people intensifies the experience. Extroverts have more fun. Your attitude will set how you feel about it more than the experiences themselves. If you don’t enjoy a place it is probably because you don’t know enough about it. Give every culture the benefit of an open mind. Be positive and optimistic at all times and you will notice that your attitude will also be contagious.

Traveling can make you happier. It will break many of your assumed truths, it will challenge your previous knowledge about other people and places. You will start to make up your own mind about other cultures instead of adopting other people’s opinions as if they were your own ideas. It’s humbling to travel and find that other people don’t have the same dreams, don’t watch the same news, don’t have the same concerns and priorities. They also wouldn’t trade places with you, even if they appreciate and like who you are. Traveling you will learn new ways to measure quality of life.

Becoming a traveller destroys xenophobia and other forms of prejudice. It will make you understand and appreciate other cultures. Rather than fear diversity you will celebrate it. The most valuable souvenirs you will bring to your final destination will be the pieces of different cultures you will choose to absorb into your own character.

Unique perspective of riding a motorcycle

Traveling in a motorcycle is different than traveling any other way. In a car you go from one place to another without ever seeing anything on the way. In the car your attention is focused inwards: to the music, cell phone, conversation, anything but the scenario that is moving through the frame of the window. You can travel without noticing or learning anything about the path you took.

In a motorcycle it is impossible. You are part of the scenery and in contact with it at all times. You have to pay attention to everything that is outside of your vehicle. There is no DVD player, no cell phones, no music. You are part of the environment and you will experience it all. Small changes of temperature will be noticed. You will learn to observe the weather and predict it just by looking at the clouds. The smells of the road, even the elevation, all of it can be felt directly in your senses.

Walking you have the closest experience possible with your surroundings, but you are limited to just a few miles a day. In a bicycle you are still very much in touch with everything, but there is very little luggage you can carry, and the distance you can cover every day is very modest. Riding a motorcycle slowly, and avoiding the interstate highways, you can have the presence and contact with your surroundings, while still being able to cover great distances.

I like to plan my travels to some point, but leave them very open to improvisation and changes of plans. I avoid highways because I usually prefer to ride under 60 miles per hour and don’t like traffic passing me by in high speed. Secondary roads are preferred, paved county roads are the best. Twisting hilly roads give you the best experience while riding a motorcycle, while in a car you would rather take the straight and fast highways.

I look at the maps and when I see a very twisty, paved county road I try to take it. That is where you find the most interesting bars and diners, where people wave at you when you pass, where you can ride slow and enjoy not just the ride itself but the beautiful scenery.

Death, meditation, life

Since I began this trip I received the news about three friends of mine who died. One was taken away by cancer, one in a car accident, and another succumbed to madness and subsequent homelessness on a straight path downwards to the grave.

All this time on the motorcycle, meditating, thinking about this and much more, have been giving me opportunity to examine what I feel about those losses like never before. The initial grief and profound feeling of loss is always followed by long times imagining the suffering of those people that loved them and that I also know well. That part hurts the most as I identify with their pain.

I never appreciated so much being alive here and now. The sense of presence is so overwhelming I can taste my happiness and gratitude. Just trying hard to live every day.

Packing list

Stuff I usually carry in my pockets

  • iPhone
  • Pocket knife
  • Torch lighter

Riding gear

  • Jacket appropriate for riding motorcycles, with body protection and liner for cool weather
  • Skiing under pants and shirt, to ride in cold weather
  • Cowboy boots
  • Gloves for cold weather and gloves for warm weather
  • 2 helmets
  • Fleece

On little front bag

  • Sunscreen
  • 1 large can of Fix-a-Flat, tire inflator and sealer
  • Assortment of zip-ties
  • Tire pressure gauge
  • Mother’s Chrome Polish
  • Kriptonyte lock

Hard side bags

  • Clothing
    • Two pairs of jeans, one nice for social occasions (from presidential inaugurations to bail hearings), and an old one for riding
    • 4 old t-shirts (100% cotton, so when they are worn out they become rags for waxing)
    • 4 good shirts, for going out at night
    • Underwear, socks
    • Sneakers
    • Wool hat
    • Leather jacket
    • Shorts
    • Flip-flops
    • Bandana
  • Other stuff
    • Small Targus bag with netbook, portable harddisk, cables, chargers, papers, documents, headset, cables, accessories
    • Professional headset for the iPhone
    • Army canteen
    • 1 book (Zen and The Art of Motorcycle Maintenance)
    • Large towel
    • Nécessaire with bathroom items
    • Sun glasses
    • Small MagLite flashlight
    • Hair trim kit
    • Toolkit (additional tools, paratool, some extra parts, multi-tester)
    • Jumper cable
    • Ear plugs
    • Aprom
    • Rain gear
    • Kit with shoe polish and brush
    • Baby wipes

Under the seat

  • First-aid kit
  • Small roll of silver tape
  • Small can of wd-40
  • Tool kit (mostly the original tools from Honda)
  • Bike manual

Backpack and luggage rack

  • Small, 2 persons tent
  • Air mattress
  • Sleeping bag
  • Knife: Aitor Jungle King II
  • Light stick
  • Padlock
  • Quick shade (a half cover for the motorcycle)

What I have learned

Riding in cold weather is feasible

Not just riding, but riding long distances is feasible, not some crazy ideas. As long as the equipment is adequate (see article about riding in cold weather) all will be fine.

Camping is easier said than done

Finding locations for camping in America is not easy. Most RV campsites don’t have reserved spaces for tents. State parks are few and far between and full of rules and regulations that make you feel like you are one of the attractions in a theme park. Most jurisdictions in America make it illegal to camp in non-designated areas and you can be fined (and expelled) at any moment. Wither you are out in the wilderness or in a controlled environment (with electricity, showers, wireless internet) where you will pay nearly as much as you do for a cheap hotel, so what is the point? Considering the discomfort and aggravation of setting up your camp and packing it all again at the end, I am questioning the usefulness of the entire idea. I updated and carried my camping gear for three thousand miles and haven’t used it yet.

Couch surfing is very efficient

During the 30 days it took me to travel from Miami to San Diego I only stayed in hotels or motels 5 nights. The other 25 I spent couchsurfing and the experiences varied from all right to excellent. Booking takes a little bit of smars and psychology, choosing dates and locations takes some scheduling and planning, but by any account staying at nice places for free while learning and making friends beats staying at hotels any time.

Bigger is better than faster

I rode a Kawasaki ZX-14. Very nice motorcycle, great control, and plenty of power. However I logged much greater mileage in the past with bigger motorcycles like the Honda Valkyrie and this time I felt the difference in two important aspects:

Hard saddlebags are more convenient in long trips. You can lock your valuables on them and not worry about it as much as you do with nylon, detachable bags.

The other important aspect is a consequence of size and style of bike. A Valkyrie, or pretty much any large cruiser, can be used to run out of the paved roads to find a campsite, handle bad road conditions (like RT-9 in New Mexico) with comfort, and allow to carry the same amount of luggage while still leaving enough space for a passenger. The Kawasaki is a great motorcycle but as soon as you leave the perfect pavement of the best roads it gets scary, and in anything that is not asphalt or concrete it turns into a scary, unmanageable beast. Sometimes even going over a curb or a patch of grass to reach the driveway can be frightening.

You can travel very slow and enjoy much more

I can ride from Miami to Los Angeles probably in 6 days, maybe even less if the weather is fine and the motivation is there. But that would not compare to doing it in a month or more. I had the opportunity not only to get some work done online but also to talk to people, stop many times to enjoy the scenery, relax and appreciate the landscape like you never do while riding a car, or when trying to beat the calendar.

Smaller is better than powerful

When it comes to computers and travel, smaller is definitely better. I carried a really small Dell Mini 9 running Mac OS X and it beats any other computer I had. I can do any of the work I do in my desktop computer or any of my previous PowerBooks, while at the same time taking much less space on the luggage and tolerating the abuse typical of backpacking and motorcycle riding. This computer has no moving parts (even the main disk is solid state. All together a computer like this can be purchased by $300 or less on eBay or CraigsList and will serve you like nothing else.

My dependency on communications is significant

I don’t need to answer the phone all the time, I don’t text message all the time, and I can survive a day without internet access. However, my day really goes better if there is WiFi and if my iPhone has access. I am using the iPhone to check messages, check emails, and as a GPS. I didn’t get lost a single times on this trip. I could find restaurants and services any time I wanted. I could even give information to tourists in cities that I didn’t know thanks to Google Maps.

When I plan my next trip abroad or if I decide to get into the wild and do some real camping for any extended period of time I will need to take into account cell phone coverage, internet access (or abstinence), and even the availability of electricity.